Intercultural Design - Project 1

INSTRUCTION
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Anarcho-Punk Culture
What is Anarcho-Punk?
Simply put, anarcho-punk is a subgenre of punk that pushes for anarchism. “Anarchism” comes from the Greek word anarchos which refers to the lack of authority. As a political view anarchism pertains to the belief that a government system is as harmful to society as it is unnecessary.
The anarchist symbol consists of an ‘A’ which stands for anarchism, inside of an ‘O’ which stands for order, all together representing the philosophy “Order without Rulers”.
History
While some people only consider the bands actively involved in the genre through the original anarcho-punk breakthrough in the 70s and 80s in the UK as anarcho-punk, others do also view any punk band with anarchist themes to be a part of the subgenre.
Before that, especially in the 60s, various punk rock bands with anarchist members started involving radical politics within punk music, which really promoted using music as a form of social and political change.
10 Anarcho-Punk Bands/Artists:
- Rudimentary Peni (1980 - present), London, UK
- Conflict (1981 - present), London, UK
Zounds (1977 - present, Readings, UK
Flux Of Pink Indians (1980 - 1986), Bishops Stortford, Hertfordshire, UK
Poison Girls (1976 - 1995), Brighton, UK
The Apostles (1980 - 1990), London, UK
Naked Aggression (1990 - present), Wisconsin, USA
Anti-System (1981 - present), Bradford, UK
Political Asylum (1982 - 1993), Sterling, Scotland
Toxic Waste (1982 - 1996), Belfast, UK
Anarcho-Punk in Malaysia
Rumah Api is an institution that houses a community fighting for social justice, equality, anti-authoritarianism, etc.
“Our community includes artists and activists whose work promotes critical analysis and the possibility of expanded vision for our lives and the lives of our neighborhoods, cities, and communities. It includes punks who embrace the ethos of Do-It-Yourself, express positive outrage, and reject corporate commercialism. It includes nomads, squatters, fringe population, and people in the communitywho find the RUMAH API place to be heard and appreciated.
Our space is always available to punk, activists and other organizations for meetings, workshops, forums, benefits, workshops and so on.”
Fig 1.5 “Vote for Nobody” banner outside Rumah Api
Hippie Culture
The Art of Yuzen (Kimono)
Yuzen is a dyeing technique is Japanese’s traditional dyeing technique. The term Yuzen was derived from Japanese Painter MiyazakiYuzensai. It involves drawing designs on white fabric with a paste resist before dyeing the fabric. Yuzen-dyeing, a paste resist-dyeing technique, was used to create freehand designs with multiple colors, resulting in large pictorial images, unburdened by the repetitive patterns that characterize most textile techniques.
Hon-yuzen: True Yuzen
The original yuzen process used stencils to transfer a design onto fabric, and starch (known as nori) onto the fabric to allow colors to be added layer by layer.
The first version of the image is initially sketched directly onto the fabric. The starch (nori) is applied to areas of the pattern that are to remain undyed. The nori acts as a boundary for the ink, protecting the untouched fabric from the dye. After the initial coloring has been done, a dye resistant starch known as fusenori is spread over the dyed area. The kimono’s base color is then dyed, while the covered area remains protected by the fusenori.
Following these steps, yuzen kimonos can be customised to suit requests, so say for example you’re looking for a little extra old-world Kyoto style flare like gold leaf (which we’ll speak further about later), you can add it once the process it finished. The entire process can take upwards of a month.
Crafted over centuries ago, the technique has been tweaked and appropriated by other cultures outside of Kyoto and even Japan. Companies have found ways to automate the process, while in Okinawa local artisans created bingata a slightly different technique (used on fabrics beyond the kimono) that is said to have been crafted sometime in the 14th century, predating the creation of yuzen dyeing.
Types of Yuzen:
Kyo-yuzen:
Kyo yuzen which as you probably guessed hails from Miyazaki Yuzen Sai’s home city of Kyoto. Created for the higher echelons of society, such as members of the imperial court, Kyo yuzen is all about showing off the finer things in life. Typical Kyo yuzen designs can be spotted by their intricate patterns, which are not afraid to incorporate elaborate silver and gold leaf embroidery into their design.
Kaga-yuzen:
Originating in the arts-centric city of Kanazawa comes Kaga yuzen, a style which gets its name from the Kaga clan of Ishikawa Prefecture in which it evolved. The history books say that Miyazaki Yuzen Sai brought his technique to Kanazawa himself, however over time the style morphed into something a little different to its predecessor. On many Kaga yuzen kimono you may notice a recreation of a less than perfect leaf, maybe one that’s been bitten by an insect. This imagery is known as mushi-kui which translates to insect bitten. It’s a conscious artistic decision said to represent the transience of nature.
One of the main ways to differentiate the two styles are the flower shading and use of gold and silver leaf. Kaga yuzen tends to avoid using gold and silver leaf for a slightly more understated approach to design. Remember the flower graditation on the Kyo style? From dark in the centre to light at the ends? Well Kaga style gradation goes the opposite, from dark on the outside to light in the centre.
Edo-yuzen:
Born in Japan’s largest, the Tokyo version of yuzen was more inspired by sleek practicality than it was by over-the-top showmanship. You can easily identify a Edo or Tokyo yuzen by its more muted, softer color palette which often plays backdrop to images of Edo-era merchants at work. As this style was evolving, the city was under the rule of a strict sumptuary law which forbade people from any over displays of luxury and extravagance.
History
Skateboarding was once referred to as sidewalk surfing as it came from surf culture - it is essentially surfing on land. Southern Californians back in 1958 were looking for ways to create the same euphoria they got from surfing as an out-of-water experience, and propped up roller skate wheels on either ends of a wooden plank. They started skating on the asphalt sidewalks, and more and more surfers were building their own skateboards to be a part of this new exciting sport. In just a short period of time, proper skateboards were commercialised as the culture grew rapidly even outside of the surf community, and in 1963 the first skateboard team was formed along with the first ever skateboard competition.
As skateboards evolved (with great influence from a group called Z-Boys) to be easier to manoeuvre using different materials and improved board shapes, skaters took it to empty swimming pools where they learned new tricks and made the sport all the more exhilarating. That’s where the concept of skateparks came from and ultimately led to the introduction of vertical, or “vert” skating.
Fig 1.12 The first ever skatepark, Carlsbad Skatepark, was opened in 1976 in California
Art
Skateboarding is rooted in authenticity, freedom and nonconformity, where everyone is encouraged to be their true selves and express themselves. One way they do this is through artworks on their skateboards and even at the skateparks.
Fig 1.13 Evolution of Skateboard
Back when skating first came around skateboards were just plain wood planks, and when skateboards became commercialised by Roller Derby they kept the raw wood look and added a logo on it. For a good while skateboards were just works of typography, added with a bright and funky background colour or pattern. Jim Phillips, Vernon Courtland Johnson or Wes Humpston began doing graphic works on skateboard decks around the 80s, and later in the 90s Marc McKee introduced more cartoon-ish or illustrative designs. When the 21st century rolled in, creatives were really reaching and let little-to-no bounds stop them. Personalised skateboards were just far better.
Fig 1.14 Skateboards
Like one would decorate a home, skaters painted theirparks. The most common styles used are freehand graffiti and also large-scale murals.
Fig 1.15 Skateparks
Fashion
Skateboard and skatepark artworks are not the only forms of self-expression for skaters. With the rise of street skating in the 80s, fashion became a big part of skate culture. Loose baggy clothes, punk rock fashion, hip-hop fashion and all sorts of “outcast” styles became popular with skaters too because everyone felt welcome.
Fashion enthusiasts outside skate culture look up to skate styles too - the carefree nature of skaters is very appealing which is understandable, because in regular society it isn’t always easy to present yourself as who you are. A lot of skater fashion is also heavily influenced by the African American community especially during the 90s.
Today however, there are more big-name brands capitalising off of skate culture than ever before, including but not limited to Nike, Supreme, Louis Vuitton and Gucci.
Rebel Fashion: Japanese Delinquent Subcultures
Japan is often seen as a homogenous society in which people strictly adhere to societal norms and are encouraged to stick to the status quo. Those who don’t fit into these standard conventions are ostracized and considered outcasts.
However, there are many groups of people, especially youth, who reject and rebel against societal standards. These social rejects came together to create their own groups to stand against conventional society, and the biggest tool they used to stand out and distinguish themselves is their fashion.
There are many rebellious youth subcultures in Japan that use their appearance to establish their identities, but I will focus on three groups that have many overlaps: yankii, bosozoku and sukeban.
Yankii
Originating from and developing within the 1960s to 90s, yankii is “a youth subculture based on rebellion and embracing of class distinctions.” These people are “mostly working class and sometimes suburban youth.” “Yankii are a group of people who refuse to conform to Japan’s strict societal norms, usually rebelling with brightly dyed hair, customized uniforms, and a willingness to fight.”
Some physical characteristics include dyed hair, especially red or blond, which contrasts the natural black and brown hair that Japanese people typically have. The hair may be in a pompadour or permed. These types of hairstyles are also a symbol of pride and a readiness to fight.
Yankii clothing overlaps with bosozoku culture, so the information will be in the next section.
Bosozoku
Bosozoku are delinquents in roaming biker gangs. The word “bosozoku” loosely translates to “violent speed tribe” and they were typically from the Kansai region of Japan. Similar to yankii, they have dyed hair and/or pompadours and perms.
Their choice of clothing is modified school uniforms or long overcoats and jumpsuits called tokkou-fuku, inspired by manual laborers and World War II kamikaze pilots. They also customize this clothing using embroidery, and as there are many different gangs, these embroideries are typically kanji characters signifying their gang name or motto.
Sukeban
Sukeban were delinquent girl gangs prevalent between the 1960s to 80s. (Source) They emerged as a protest against the oversexualization of teenage girls, which is why they are characterized by very long skirts.
They modified their school sailor uniforms by adding long skirts, and similar to bosozoku, they often added embroidery of gang names and slogans as well, along with embroidery of roses. They carried razors and chains hidden in their skirts, as well as carried cigarettes and umbrellas. They also wore surgical masks. Like yankii, they also bleached and dyed their hair, especially blonde. Thin and extreme eyebrows were also representative of the sukeban aesthetic.
Sneakerhead Culture
Sneaker collectors and hobbyists go far beyond athletics. It is a “lifestyle” whereas those inside this subculture will collect, trade, and display or wear sneakers with specific designs from various name brands. The shoes collected by these hobbyists began with basketball shoes, but later developed with the addition of brands including shoes created for skateboarding as well.
The origin of sneaker culture in the USA can be linked back to the 1980s, when Michael Jordan’s Air Jordan shoe line emerged in 1985. These sneakers began a collecting community, and the hip-hop movement made these shoes a status symbol, which further encouraged the community to boost in popularity. The sneakerhead subculture originally became popular with the black youth and white skateboarders in the US.
The sneakerhead subculture emerged in the UK as well as Czech Republic by the start of the 2020s.
The brands that are popular among the collectors include but are not limited to; Air Jordans, Air Force Ones, Nike Dunks, Nike Skateboarding, and the Yeezy line. There are shoes that have more or less value amongst collectors, and a lot of aspects go into this, such as aesthetics, materials, and designers. Sneakerhead culture has their own collection of slang as well, with terms used to describe the shoes being resold and talked about. Many terms in the sneakerhead slang are also used by skaters and basketball fans.
Sneakerhead fashion goes hand in hand with streetwear, but the sneakers themselves are the status symbol, so there aren’t any notable fashion styles that display that someone is apart of the sneaker collecting community. More often than not nowadays, sneakerheads show their presence online.
While the US has a more pronounced sneakerhead subculture, Malaysian sneaker collectors are just as passionate and engaged in the lifestyle.
Sneakerhead culture has become part of the mainstream when it comes to the Kuala Lumpur streetwear scene. Many stores have opened up, by and for sneakerheads among the capital city alone. “Special” sneakers became a ‘passion investment’ for many people.
Even so, nowadays in Malaysia, it has been said by long-time sneakerheads that a lot of those participating in the subculture at the moment are looking to resell. It grew from a passion project for many people to an opportunity to make a “quick buck.” “Collectors” will invest in expensive shoes from limited series or sought for brands and resell them later at a higher price when the rarity spikes.
Mamak in Malaysia
Mamak food stalls are the cornerstones of Malaysian street food culture. Created by the Indian Muslim community in Malaysia, mamak stalls are roadside open-air eateries that primarily sell Malay Indian food. These are places where all locals can gather to eat, drink, talk, and watch live football matches on TV screens. Open 24 hours a day, mamak stalls are more than just food outlets, as these are places that offer refuge for Malaysians who want to satisfy their cravings and be part of a fun and food-loving local community.
The word “mamak” is derived from the term for maternal uncle in the Tamil language, “maa-ma”. It is also used as a way to respectfully greet older male shopkeepers.With centuries worth of Malay, Chinese, and Indian culinary influence, the mamak stall is essentially a melting pot of various cultures, offering an assortment of food that has harmoniously integrated local and imported ingredients and cuisine. Diners can enjoy Chinese-style fried rice, Malay-style dishes like Nasi Lemak, Indian food like Vadai, and even Yemeni-style Shawarma and Thai Tom Yum Goong, usually accompanied by a glass of teh tarik, or pulled tea, the nation’s favorite drink. All of the stalls are generally halal (adhering to Muslim dietary requirements), so there’s no pork or alcohol on the menu. Typically the locals including Chinese and Malays sometimes call the Mamaks, “Ah neh”, which means “big brother” as a mark of respect. The Malays, address them as “Bang” which is the short form of “Abang”, which also means “big brother” in Malay.
Mamak stalls are found almost everywhere throughout Malaysia. In city centers like Kuala Lumpur and Petaling Jaya, mamak stalls cater to residents 24/7, so it has become the favorite place for people from all walks of life, from workers taking their 9-to-5 breaks to partygoers who want a quick late-night food trip. The mamak culture is very popular among young adults and teenagers, who find mamaks safe places to hang out with friends at night, and find the food and drinks very affordable and tasty. Malaysians are always on the lookout for great places, and the perfect spot for the night is impossible to miss. Modern mamak stalls have a café style layout, furnished with decent seating arrangements and televisions sets to allow customers to watch the latest TV shows and sports programs as they dine.
The mamak stalls are very trendy among Malaysian night goers. Instead of hanging out at a pub or watering hole, Malaysians prefer to visit these stalls, where foldable tables and chairs await them along the sidewalks, and some even taking over parking spaces. Some of the bigger and more popular stalls can fill up the whole street with hundreds of people.
Additionally, mamak stalls are places where the spirit of football is alive. Whenever there’s a game, football fans gather around TV sets, and more recently on projector screens, to watch the game. A football night in a mamak stall is comparable to a stadium atmosphere, with crowds cheering loudly for their favorite clubs and players. On important game nights, plastic chairs and tables would be set up along the sidewalks, with patrons spilling into the streets.
FEEDBACK
Presentation Day Feedback:
The overall ideas that we wanted to do is something that have been seen before, do not have the wow factor or uniqueness to it. It lacks, only face value and does not go any deeper. How does it relate to visualism? Making the connection between the reasoning why we chose this topic and the art itself is still a work in progress. Maybe we can look at the skate culture and graffiti or mural a little deeper and explore that part.